NISEKO EXPEDITION 2024 Winner

We did it! We won Japan's most epic adventure race, the NISEKO EXPEDITION in 34 hrs 11 min!, missed 1 proCP though. Now we've got a free entry to Malaysia's IRON BOUND (Adventure1 Asia World Cup), so we're heading there next to take on the challenge!

After a disappointing experience in Niseko last year, we took on the challenge with our usual group of members Fukiko, Hiroki, Daz, and Shunpei, who had been having a lot of fun and preparing for the year. This year, we all gave it our all and finished in 34 hours and 11 minutes, with one ProCP remaining. And we won! Next up is Malaysia!!

(Please note that the following is a very long report of six A4 pages.)

At the briefing at 20:00 on 7/5, the maps were finally distributed. First, we landed on Nakajima Island in Lake Toya by packraft and started trekking. There were also downriver trips on two rivers I had never heard of. I couldn't contain my excitement at the course, which was way beyond my imagination.

We moved to Lake Toya by bus and received a pep talk from Director Morishan, who came to the starting point to support us. 10 minutes before the start, Fukiko wandered around looking for a toilet. She had eaten too much at the ferry buffet and was still suffering from indigestion. Thanks to the kind staff, we felt relieved that we wouldn't be in any trouble on the lake, and we met up with the other members waiting at the start one minute before the start.

<Leg 1 Toyako Packraft - Trekking - Packraft> 7/6 0:00

We started at midnight and prepared the packrafts in good order. I had been working hard on preparing and packing the packrafts for a while now, and I had been trying to do it quickly by devising ways to do it, so I started paddling on the lake almost at the same time as East Wind, who had set off in the lead.

First, we headed for the Nakajima CP on Lake Toya. We tied Hiroki Fukiko's boat to Daz Shumpei's boat and towed them so they wouldn't get separated.

We considered making a large detour to the windward side, but there was less wind than we thought when we started rowing, so we decided to just go straight to our destination. However, when we got out to sea, the crosswind was strong and the waves were rough, so we rowed while being conscious of staying upwind so as not to be swept away.

I turned off my headlights and checked the shadows of the islands. It was an exciting and luxurious experience to be able to paddle across Lake Toya in the dark and reach Nakajima Island. (I received special permission to do this.)

After a while, the East Wind got closer. Shumpei's excitement grew and he started to speed up. However, it was just the beginning. "Shumpei, please calm down!" we all called out.

I was secretly drafting behind Sachiko and Yoki of East Wind. After a while, no one was coming up behind me, so East Wind dropped back. When I passed Sachiko, a former member of Fukinotou, and I joked around a bit and encouraged each other.

As the island approached, we started to worry a little if we were really in the right place, but we headed for the cove where the CP was. We were relieved when we saw the flag and the staff. We never thought we would be able to land at the top! We were nervous, but we had an experience last year when we went to the top with a packraft, but we panicked and failed, so we told each other, "Let's forget about it for now and stay calm."

Anyway, the important thing is to take as many of the 6 pro CPs (cp2-7) on the island as possible in any order and make it to CP8 in time for the 5 o'clock checkpoint.

First, I tried to head to CP2 in the shortest route, but since I didn't know how thick the undergrowth was on the island, I decided to take a slight detour from the road. When I reached the base of the mountain, I saw a light that looked like East Wind in front of me. It immediately overtook me. It was a steep climb through the undergrowth, but it disappeared in an instant. As expected.

Other than the walking paths shown on the map, there were few footprints, and the vegetation was diverse, so we were suddenly blocked by thickets and couldn't pick up speed. We began to realize that it would not be easy to collect everything on this island. However, we decided that the turning point of the race would be how many we could collect here, so Hiroki got fired up and said, "This is the deciding point, so let's go all out." Even though it was still early in the race, we pushed forward with our heavy packraft equipment on our backs.

After reaching CP2 at the summit, I found a trail that seemed to lead to CP6. I reconsidered the order of my route. In order to leave the possibility of reaching all the routes to the very last moment, I decided to make a round trip to CP6, go around 5-3-4, and then wait for time around CP8 to reach CP7.

I wanted to leave my heavy gear behind, but when I checked the competition booklet, it said, "Carry all your packraft equipment and head to the next CP," so I gave up and continued on. Despite struggling with the undergrowth and steep climbs, I made it to CP4 and sped along the road. It was really a close call. I passed near CP8 29 minutes before the checkpoint. I decided to turn back if I didn't feel like I could make it in 15 minutes, so I continued on. I passed East Wind and Tiger Adventure from Australia. I wonder if they had made it all.

We could see the peak of the last CP. It's up there, we'll definitely get there! We climbed up the steep slope, panting as we all climbed and reached CP7. 16 minutes left, so we hurried back.

I managed to make it to CP8, 6 minutes before the 5:00 checkpoint time. I felt exhausted and relieved, as if I had reached the finish line.

But leg 1 is not over yet. The race is just beginning. We quickly prepare our packrafts and set off from the island.

As soon as we set out from the island as the last team, we saw many teams that were being held back by the strong wind and were not making much progress, so Shunpei and Hiroki held a strategy meeting and decided to go around to the west side of the island to avoid the wind. The west side of the island was comfortable and we made good progress, and when we left the shade of the island, we all made sure to replenish our supplies and headed straight for the beach. We overtook the teams that had gone ahead of us and arrived safely at CP9. Although we were the last to start paddling our packrafts, we were the fourth (Chomoranma - East Wind - Tiger Adventure) to land.

<Leg 2 Trekking> 7/6 6:09

Delighted by the lightness of our backpacks, we headed towards the trekking section and overtook Tiger Adventure early on.

As I was walking along the mountain road from the city, I was overtaken by the Russell team, who came running at a tremendous speed. They were a team that overtook me last year, and they were really strong physically.

However, as we took small shortcuts on the forest road we repeatedly caught up with the Russell team who were supposed to have gone ahead, and we finished our trekking section at almost the same time.

<leg3 MTB> 7/6 7:45

We changed to MTBs and headed along the lakeside and forest roads in the mountains. As we started to climb, Shunpei started to fall behind a little. It can't be helped, he had tried too hard in the Toyako section. But it was still strange. When I got off and looked at my bike, I saw that the front brake disc was warped and was constantly hitting the ground and dragging. I had just had it serviced before the race, so perhaps it had been hit during transport. While I was somehow bending the disc and adjusting it so that it would not hit as much as possible, the Russell team passed me and I was completely out of sight.

I pulled myself together and climbed in silence. When I was caught up by the Ezo flying squirrel as I was escaping CP16, I joked in my usual poor acting style that "It wasn't here," and hurried on.

"It's a 1:50,000 map, so I'm not making any progress!" I complained as I continued climbing the mountain pass. Soon, a Ezo flying squirrel passed me with great speed.

We were about to reach CP17, but we didn't see the crossroads and we weren't there yet considering the altitude, so we said to ourselves as we hurried on, when Hiroki happened to spot the CP from the road and yelled in surprise. It really seemed like we found it by chance. After that, he kept muttering how close it was. Luck was on our side.

After that, we continued going up and down, somehow we made it to CP18, and all that was left was to go down! As we were going forward, a group of people came up from the front...?? It seemed they had gotten off at the wrong fork in the road. "Let's go again!" they exclaimed, climbing with a refreshing attitude, showing their overwhelming physical strength.

<Leg 4 Packrafting on the Nagaru River> 7/6 12:00

It was chilly, so we set out paddling wearing raincoats in addition to the required wetsuits.

It was a little shallow and rocky, so if you didn't read the line carefully, you would get caught easily. We needed slalom-like maneuvering skills and moved forward while avoiding the rocks. Shunpei, a former member of the Japanese national team for canoe slalom, said with a big smile, "This is the first time I've used slalom techniques in an adventure race!" Hiroki Fukiko also made good use of her experience of rafting down various rivers on her packraft trip.

Despite feeling the stress of not making much progress, I kept going and finally managed to overtake Chomoranma, the Ezo flying squirrel, who was having even more trouble.

CP20 is a waterfall. The staff was waiting and told us to let the packrafts fall and to go down this line like a water slide. The waterfall is so violent that it seems like a joke, but it seems to be real. First of all, Shunpei, who is lively, jumps in the river. He looks like he's having fun, so we get courage and prepare ourselves and jump in.

From there we continued on a long journey, constantly getting on and off trains.

As we approached the TA, we were greeted by cheers from friends and their families who came to Niseko with us to babysit our daughter, giving us energy!

<Leg 5 Trekking> 7/6 15:23

I started to get tired and couldn't make much progress on the slow climb up the road. Fukiko said, "Let's run from that electric pole to the next one," and we ran as far as we could.

After the cave at CP24, we went up a steep slope, but it was reassuring to know that the team shared the common understanding that no matter how steep the slope, it was better than the slope we had last year. We followed the deer trail well up the last steep slope, and came out on top of the cliff, saying, "It's like a mountain trail!"

I managed to arrive at TA5 while it was still light. I arrived about 2 and a half hours earlier than planned, but the next MTB section had many parts that were not on the map and were unknown. I had to calculate how far I should take the proCP while keeping an eye on the checkpoint times.

When I was about to take a break, East Wind was just getting ready to leave. The difference was about 50 minutes. I thought it was early after all, but I also thought the difference was smaller than I thought.

Here we had a one-hour mandatory break. Before the TA, we discussed what we wanted to do and what we had to do, and then each of us took action. Hiroki reloaded the map and calculated the time, Daz dried out the submerged headlamp and other items in the tent sauna, and Shunpei and Fukiko slept a bit and then cared for and massaged the soles of their feet to help them recover.

<leg6 MTB-rope-MTB> 7/6 19:56

After a break, we decided to take an hour and three minutes off on our MTBs, reflecting on what we had done last year. It was already dark and the number of teams at the TA had increased.

As we continued along the cycling road and arrived near CP28, we saw a Hokkaido flying squirrel wandering around. It must have skipped the pro CP in the previous section, as it was right in front of us. We knew we were in the right place, but we couldn't find the bridge at CP28. We were sure we had seen the bridge and the flag on it while packrafting, but it got dark and we couldn't see it anymore. After a bit of confusion, Hiroki cleverly suggested we try going from the opposite bank, which was a bit of a detour, but we had to cross the bridge up ahead. As expected.

From there it was a steady climb up to the power lines. Thanks to the rest, everyone was able to keep up a good pace.

We entered the power lines and after going a little further we found some places where we could ride, which seemed nice, but soon we started experiencing some rough muddy ups and downs, so we had to carry and push our bikes as we went.

Daz was fed up with the muddy road and couldn't ride at all, so he tried to ride down a slight slope but fell. He hit his chest but didn't seem to have any fatal injuries.

Somehow, we got closer to CP30. Hiroki and Daz held a strategy meeting to decide whether to use the nearby valley to escape, or to escape from the north of CP30. The slope to the north looked steep and dangerous, so we decided to use the nearby valley to escape and make a round trip. Shunpei's pace slowed a little due to fatigue and sleepiness, but he kept climbing up and down while calling out to others. We reached CP30 and headed back the way we came. Strangely, the return trip felt short.

This time, we walked along the stream to reach the road, but there was no way to go up. We decided that we had no choice but to climb up from here, and we carried our bikes over the bushy slope. Daz took the lead and supported Fukiko. He was very reliable.

Once on the road, we made good progress, but Fukiko was shocked when Hiroki told her that it would take an additional two hours to reach CP31 and 32. We went, but this section was much longer and harder than we had expected. The taillights of the road were blinking like a lullaby, inviting us to sleep. The other three were staggering up the mountain.

Our navigator Hiroki never got sleepy and navigated well, allowing us to reach CP31 and 32 sooner than expected and the rope section at CP33.

When they reached CP33, they found East Wind, who was supposed to be just under an hour behind them. The gap had closed?! Hiroki was excited and anxious to catch up with them. He received a map of the rope section and, thinking it couldn't be that difficult, started climbing carelessly. He saw a light up above and said that it must be a staff member and that it was over there, and continued climbing carelessly. As he got closer to the light, he realized it was another team, who also seemed lost. Where was Hiroki? He was completely lost and panicked.

Daz finds a Lumicalite and climbs up, thinking that if he follows it he will find the CP, but it is not what he imagined. Thinking that he has climbed too far, he heads down. No, something is not right. He climbs again. He says that this is the peak, so he should go down after all, and goes back again. He arrives at a place where a rope is stretched. No, this is not the CP. He climbs again...

Hiroki becomes increasingly impatient and runs off without looking behind him. Daz is sleepy and Shunpei is tired and can't keep up. Fukiko mediates between them. The team is falling apart. Fukiko scolds Hiroki, saying, "You're too impatient. There's no one behind you. Calm down."

Finally, we reached the CP and headed to the starting point of the rappel. However, there was a traffic jam caused by a group of teams who had mistaken this place for the CP. They were exhausted and didn't have the energy to go to the CP, and said they were just going to rappel, but I told them that if they had come this far, they had to get the CP first! They let me go. I think I was a bit too pushy, sorry.

We took turns descending the cliff. Shunpei, who always teaches us how to do ropework, was sleepy and struggled to set up. It was dangerous! We all watched over each other and made it down safely.

After resupplying, we set off for the second half of the bike section.

The checkpoint at CP36/TA6 was at 7:00, but we had decided in advance as a team to arrive at CP36/TA6 at 6:00, as we had judged that even if we made it in time for the next checkpoint at CP38 at 8:00.

Therefore, they decided to skip CP34, judging that they would be short on time. They had lost the desire to take all the CPs here, and the team was still feeling disjointed after the rope section, so Fukiko said, "We've been relying too much on Hiroki, so let's all try our best until the end."

East Wind may have gone to CP34. I was disappointed, but you never know what's going to happen until the end. I just kept going, trying to do my best until the finish line.

As dawn breaks, everyone's spirits tighten and they take turns leading the train. No matter how cold they are in any race, it's Daz who pulls the bike hard in the second half. Fukiko tends to fall behind when she's struggling, but she calls out to her. Even though they know they can make it to the checkpoint in time and the finish line is in sight, they keep going at full speed, aiming for the best for the team.

Although we struggled with the thickets at CP35, Shunpei led the charge into the thickets. We made it safely and headed to the next area. We somehow managed to reach the TA before 6:00.

<Leg 7 Makkari River Packraft> 7/7 6:09

Fukiko was getting tired and couldn't stand to eat. She stuffed her mouth full of mooncakes and somehow managed to swallow them. Shunpei was feeling sick and couldn't eat.

This river has many strainers, and we had been strongly warned to be careful. The previous packraft section had a long river that was shallow and had many portages, so we were wary that this river might also take a long time.

The Makkari River is a very atmospheric river that flows slowly through the forest. The water is very cold and the air is ice cold, creating a mystical atmosphere.

While being careful of strainers and other obstacles, they hurried ahead, enjoying themselves. Along the way, the team, who were not confident in their boating skills, came to a point where they had to portage, but based on the feel of the river they had paddled up to that point and the state of the other members, they continued paddling without hesitation.

Shunpei gradually becomes sick and is unable to move. Is he suffering from seasickness? His stomach and intestines seem to be affected. Daz skillfully covers for him and keeps going.

Just before the packraft section, we saw a lot of cheering from the bridge! I was cheered on by my daughter, her friends and their families, and the Russell cheering squad that was helping to liven up the event. Here, I overtook Ezo Flying Squirrel and moved ahead. I passed this team many times during the race, and I was always cheered on by Jun-chan's smiling face.

When we finally made it to the end and landed, we were greeted by the cheering squad again. Director Morrison also showed up, and the excitement rose.

<leg8 MTB-Trekking> 7/7 8:46

The long journey is almost over. All we have to do is head back to our destination, the Hilton.

Last year, we were depressed as we rowed slowly up the hill, but this year, we are rowing hard. Shunpei has made a comeback, but now Daz is feeling hungry. But we can see the finish line.

After the bike ride, we started the final trekking with the feeling that it would be a course that would lead us to the finish line in a good way, like a victory run. But Fukiko called out to us, "Let's not let our guard down until the end."

I was given a map and headed to the finish line following the pink line on the map. I was walking with a feeling of pride as I reflected on the race, thinking, "I gave it my all," but there were many lift lines and many roads that were not on the map, so I looked at the map and wondered, "Where am I? Is this right?" and got into race mode.

The image of the goal was going down the slope and going through the gate, but if you follow the pink line on the map, you will end up going through the bushes just below the lift line. Going down the bushes, you can see the goal gate a little distance away in the center of the slope. Thinking that we may have made a mistake after all, we went back the way we came and checked again. The bushes we went through seem to be the right ones. Looking back at the rule book, it says that you should go through the pink line after all.

If we go beyond the pink line, we might be disqualified. Thinking this, we made our way through the bushes, glancing at the finish gate to the side. We searched for the station at the spot marked on the map as the finish point ◎. The staff and supporters next to us looked at us curiously. We looked back at them curiously. No matter how hard we looked, we couldn't find it! (The map was wrong.)

I had no choice but to head to the finish line. The tears that had been building up disappeared somewhere, and I laughed as I complained to the staff.

In this race, we didn't think too much about the ranking, but rather everyone just gave it their all, took as many CPs as possible, and aimed to finish as quickly as possible, and it was great to see that all the members were able to work towards that goal.

Before the race, we made every possible preparation. We prepared a good packraft, a good bike, and a good wetsuit, but more than that, we came up with countless little little ideas to make the most of them, and shared them with the team.

After we scored the goal, I was curious to see how much the other teams had gotten, but more than that I was filled with a sense of satisfaction at having accomplished something.

We probably finished second, but I was hoping for first place, but East Wind was always strong and ahead of us, so I thought they would either have taken CP34, which we couldn't, or we would have lost due to time difference, even though we were tied.

At the award ceremony, when I heard the words "The winning team is... Fukinoto!" on my shoulder, I thought my heart would really jump out of my chest. I turned around and saw Hiroki with red eyes who looked like he was about to cry. And then my legs gave way.

East Wind seemed to have skipped CP30, so they were able to win by just one CP. As a prize for winning, they got a free entry ticket to IRON BOUND 48hrs (Adventure1 Asia World Cup) to be held in Malaysia in November. The four of them are still on their adventure.

Special Thanks

⭐︎Thank you to the Niseko Expedition staff for preparing such an epic and fun adventure.

⭐︎ #MorrishanAdventure supported the race, river practice and champagne fight

⭐︎ #Star Shoji, who provided paddling equipment for our unknown amateur team.

⭐︎Fuku -chan from #TAGBIKE, who picked out a good bike for Fukiko and gave Hiroki Fukiko advice on bike settings and pedaling.

⭐︎ #Kazestore, who sent me a letter of support when I purchased my packraft

⭐︎My neighbor came to Hokkaido with her family to babysit. It was my first time experiencing an adventure race, and she cheered me on while looking at my log, and even after it was over, she asked me how it went and enjoyed the race with me. I was really happy.

⭐︎My daughter was a good girl and waited for me and cheered me on a lot.

⭐︎To everyone who supported us both locally and online

⭐︎Participants who raced together, competed and encouraged each other

⭐︎And many others